Oregon Coast

Seaside to Coos Bay, Oregon – October, 2015 Barely more than a month after leaving the Atlantic Ocean we arrived at the Pacific. We don’t have any desire to travel that far, that fast very often but it was nice to know we could and it was still a pretty relaxing journey.

We were excited to see as much of the pacific coast as we could while it was still warm enough to enjoy. We had driven down the Washington coast and stopped at Astoria, Oregon one long weekend 8 years before. For this reason and because a friend recommended the town we started this journey in the town of Seaside, Oregon and spent the next 2 weeks traveling about 300 miles down highway 101 in Oregon.

The coast was amazing. Every curve brought another spectacular view. There are constant opportunities to stop and stroll another beach. Here are some of the highlights from north to south.

Seaside is a fun town and our favorite stop was at the Seaside Aquarium. It has a pool full of seals and you can buy anchovies to feed them. They are smart little buggers and when they see you approach with food, the whole lot of ’em put on quite a show trying to get your attention so you will throw them a snack. They are absolutely adorable!

We enjoyed a drive out to Cape Meares and a visit to Oceanside. In Oceanside a portion of beach is inaccessible during high tide so they have built a tunnel to it. It is awesome to come out of the dark tunnel and see the pretty, secluded beach.

Depoe Bay is known for gray whale sightings. We didn’t see any whales from town so we stopped at several other places they are often seen. We finally spotted some from Otter Crest Wayside Park. We saw a half dozen at a time and they kept popping up all over the place so I’m curious how many there actually were. Unfortunately the overlook was 500 feet above the water and it was impossible to catch a good pic of them.

They were amazing to see though and it was hard to tear ourselves away. But we finally did to visit nearby Devil’s Punchbowl State park. Very Cool!

And the views there were amazing.

Newport was a great little town. Their historic bayfront was pretty cool. They have a large population of sea lions that were quite amusing to watch and would have been more so if the smell (I presume theirs) was not so atrocious.

Cape Perpetua had Thor’s well and several blowholes. It was an awesome display of the ocean’s power.

Shores Acres State Park had a beautiful beach but the highlight was the formal gardens.

We stayed in 5 different campsites but the 2 most notable were boondocking in Chinook Winds Casino parking lot which is right next to the prettiest beach.

And our last camp in Oregon which was one of our favorite boondocks to date. There is free camping all along Bastendorf Beach Road which is more suitable for small rigs. But at the end of the road is a large parking lot with plenty of room. The county does have an RV park also but just ignore that and keep going. The area probably gets crowded in the summer but in October, even on a weekend, there were less than 10 rigs with plenty of room to spread out. An awesome beach was a short walk away but right in front of the parking lot is this view of the mouth of Coos Bay.

A few of our other favorite things about Oregon were the number of very cool old bridges.

I found Oregon’s birds funnier than your average birds.

And no sales tax!!

Heaven

Cheyenne to Flaming Gorge NRA, Wyoming – September, 2015 Jim appeared mildly alarmed when I looked at him one afternoon and stated “I want to be more adventurous in our sleeping arrangements.”  Relief registered on his face as I went on to explain I thought we should be more daring in choosing boondocks. We were about to make our way across Wyoming and I had my eye on a couple of free camping arrangements. The weather was perfect for boondocking and Jim was agreeable.

Our first destination was Cheyenne. We expected to get there around lunch and needed a place to leave the trailer while we explored the town, then we planned to move on first thing the next morning. I saw Sierra Trading Post listed under overnight camping on my Allstays app. It looked great and a heck of a lot better than a Walmart. When we arrived we discovered it had a huge empty lot for RVs. The employees were also incredibly friendly and the store was pretty great too. They sell sporting goods and apparently do a huge amount of business online. The further you went into the store the bigger the discounts got.

I wanted to check out Cheyenne’s free botanical gardens. What we found was a lovely park that included walking trails, a lake, and the gardens. A big part of the gardens were closed for construction but what was left was very nice. My favorite part was the children’s garden. It was beautiful and extremely well planned and appealed to the child in each of us.

We returned to our home in the parking lot. We were joined by a motor home and a semi later that evening. It did turn out to be one of the louder places we have slept. Semi-trucks carrying goods to and from Sierra’s warehouse drove right by our rig all night long. But this minor inconvenience was worth the savings.

Our next stop was Flaming Gorge Reservoir. We aimed for a dispersed camping area on the west side of the lake called Buckboard South. I had reviewed the satellite image and thought it looked pretty safe. We actually did have some close calls on the road in and could have found a better route to our campsite if we had scouted it better, but it all worked out. We had a great spot right by the water with this view.

Which got even better at sunset.

We didn’t see another sole the whole first day. The next day we went for a walk and discovered a neighbor just a half mile from us. While kayaking we discovered there were about a dozen campers on the peninsula. The best campsights were at the very end but they also had the nearest neighbors. I liked our private site back in the cove.

We finally got our replacement solar panels installed. While working on the roof we discovered we had an audience, this pronghorn.

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We also saw about a million rabbits. They looked like a cottontail but were as big as jackrabbits.

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But the best part about this boondock in the middle of nowhere was the night sky. I woke up at 2 am one morning and stepped outside. It was amazing! I had been dying to play with the settings on my new camera so I dragged it and a tripod outside for about an hour. Jim was sound asleep and every time a fish jumped behind me I just about had a heart attack. I have a lot to learn about night photography. I believe a bit of beginner’s luck was involved when I captured a shooting star directly over my rig.

Not 20 minutes after I got back to my warm bed I heard a lot of scuffling noises outside. The next morning we discovered coyote tracks around camp and their hairs on our grill. Glad I didn’t run into them while I was out there!

Getting High in Colorado

Durango, Colorado – June 2015 There is only one direct route from Delta to Durango Colorado but the road is a doosey. It has three very high mountain passes over 10,000 feet in elevation. This section of Highway 550 is part of the San Juan Skyway and the portion between Ouray and Silverton is known as the Million Dollar Highway. We actually considered the 8 hour alternative route since we did not have a good time the last time we drove this way because it rained cats and dogs and even hailed for a while. We weren’t sure we wanted to try it with the 5th wheel. But everything we read said to take it slow and it would be fine, so we chose a Monday morning with little chance of rain and off we went.

I’m very glad we did. It was an easy 3 hour drive. For me at least! Jim had to deal with the 7 percent grades up and down and back up again. And the 10 mph hairpin curves! The sign in this picture says it all.

I had a lovely ride with spectacular scenery. I love tunnels. The second one was interesting with a waterfall cascading over it.

Jim had to keep his eyes on the blacktop. There was no room for error. There are places where there is no guardrail, no shoulder, just a drop of thousands of feet next to the road. We will take this route again but try to avoid rain and we wouldn’t even consider it if snow or ice were a possibility. I understand they try to keep it open year round for those souls braver than us.

Durango was another town we had fond memories of from our family road trip 15 years ago. This might have had something to do with the fact that our family of 3 spent that 10 day vacation in a small tent and Durango was the one place that we splurged on a hotel room. I really didn’t remember much about Durango except wishing we could stay longer.

It is definitely worth a visit. The downtown has a ton of beautiful historic buildings and is still bustling. It has great shops (including five recreational marijuana dispensaries for anyone interested). We don’t have many reasons to shop these days but enjoyed walking down Main Street a few times and were entertained by the wares offered by the stores, the variety of people, and the pets. This town is very dog friendly and although we do not currently own a dog, we still love interacting with four legged furry friends.

Durango is very walkable with a 7 mile riverwalk called the Animas River Trail. It is paved and has many pedestrian bridges making it easy for locals and tourists to walk or bike to where they want to be. It goes through many parks and has lots of art and sculptures along it.

In addition to walking much of the riverwalk during our visit, we spent one morning hiking the first couple miles of the Colorado Trail which begins in Durango and travels 500 miles through the Rocky Mountains to Denver. We also drove 8 miles up Junction Creek Road to the Animas Overlook. There is a 2/3 mile paved path there with several picnic tables, grills, and beautiful views of the river valley below. It’s a great spot for a picnic. Jim cooked us an amazing lunch with hot sausages, potatoes, and green beans.

During our week in Durango we stayed the first couple days at the National Forest Service’s Junction Creek Campground. We were lucky to find an amazing site in the pines for 2 nights for $20 per night with the assistance of the most helpful campground host we have ever met. The campground does take reservations, which I would recommend, and has electric sites for $24. However, we found out we were going to have company for the weekend so we chose to splurge on a full hookup site at Alpen Rose RV Park ($45 per night) so we would have better access to town, cell service, and a pool. Of course, as soon as we moved it got rainy and cold so we never did get to use the pool. The park was really nice though and they had the most reliable wifi we have found of any park since we started full timing.

Goblin Valley

Goblin Valley State Park, Utah – May 2015 A fellow camper told me about a boondocking area outside Goblin Valley State Park. I arrived on a Sunday afternoon and most of the people there were packing up. There are tons of trails here where people can ride ATVs and dirt bikes. Most of the campers that I’ve seen come and go this week had one of these large toys. It has been a great location, totally free, and mostly quiet. Right outside my front door are white sandstone monoliths which I’ve climbed several times during my visit. Here is a view of my campsite from the road to the state park. You may have to zoom in where the arrow points to see the campers. There are many other possible campsites in the area down dozens of dirt roads but I was happy with this big gravel parking lot just off the paved road.

The obvious draw here is Goblin Valley State Park. It was a very short drive from the visitor center to the end of the road and a scenic overlook. And I thought “is this what I paid $10 to see?” But a walk down in to the valley full of strange looking hoodoos changed my perspective. It really is a fascinating place. It is also impossible to give it justice in photographs but here’s my best effort.

It is easy to let your imagination run wild in this place and see the forms of fanciful castles, goblins, dragons, and other whimsical creatures in the strange landscape around you.

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I enjoyed a great hike nearby, my favorite so far this year. Wild Horse Canyon is next door to the state park and impossible to miss if you are visiting Goblin Valley. There is no fee to visit. It is a very popular hike of a slot canyon because it is accessible to all skill levels. It doesn’t require any special climbing abilities to traverse. It’s about a half mile down a wash where you have to climb a bit to get around an obstacle, and then you are at the beginning of the canyon which is about 3 miles long. Sometimes it gets a little tight in the canyon. This is a pic of one such place. That skinny sandy path scattered with rocks is what you have to walk on and sometimes you have to lean hard left or right to squeeze through.

Even on a Tuesday afternoon with rain threatening this place was crowded. I saw at least 30 other hikers and often had to wait for a group to pass before making my way down a narrow section. This would have normally diminished my enjoyment of the hike. But this particular hike was well worth battling the hordes. This hike is often hiked with nearby Little Bell Canyon for an 8 mile roundtrip.

I first planned to stay at this camp for a week. But there was zero cell service for a 20 mile radius of my camp and I had a couple business transactions in the works that I really needed to be reachable for so I decided to leave after 3 days. The night before I planned to leave a group of a dozen campers pulled in about 5pm. They circled their wagons at one end of the parking lot. Not a single camper had solar panels. I fell asleep to the drone of their generators thankful I was packing it in in the morning.